jei bus nuotiaka kada garazine galiu atvykti ir expertize padaryt perverzei ar ne...
Husaberg kampelis
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wundis
- Raudondvario karjero siaubas
- Posts: 7459
- Joined: 20 Jun 2007, 17:23
- Location: Šviežio sūrio kraštas
hehe, siandien visa diena skaitaliojau kaip tuos voztuvus atregulioti!
labai padejo susidaryti kazkokiam supratimui sitas filmukas
sita smagu darbeli darysiu po to kai baigsiu ziuret kas ten sugedo su begiais.
labai padejo susidaryti kazkokiam supratimui sitas filmukas
sita smagu darbeli darysiu po to kai baigsiu ziuret kas ten sugedo su begiais.
+2/-14
-
wundis
- Raudondvario karjero siaubas
- Posts: 7459
- Joined: 20 Jun 2007, 17:23
- Location: Šviežio sūrio kraštas
OK, ta proga papildau Husaberg skyreli savo tamsumu ir neismanymu, bei tikiuosi buti nusviestas zinojimo, paauklejimu ir garbaus patyrimo:
Nuemes dangkteli radau prakitskai ta pati ka rado ir stormsikas, tik makro shotai su mano domkratu yra nekokios kokibes, todel klausimai uzduodami ant
binaro:
1. gera naujiena. tiksliau is blogiausiu pati geriausia. verzlele nuemes radau palaida kaip mergas aleksandraveles kaime. dziaugsmo priezastis - jago ne begiu prapuolimas, dar ir vazineciau ... pasekmes manau visiems skyrelio lankytojams yra aiskios? o dabar gi atsiperkame vos pabraizyta danktelio vieta, kas paaiskina is kur po pastarojo tepaliuko keitimo atsirado mazas aliuminio drozleliu kiekis oil skryne. priversim.
2, ne tokia linksma naujiena. matome kad iliustruojamoje vietoje grandine yra padariusi ibrezimu. su salyga kad nezinau ar tai padaryta per 8 bergo eksploatavimo metus ar tik man vadeliojant, nezinau ar grandine yra tinkamai itempta. todel kyla naturalus klausimas kiek reikia ja itempt? aisku, pirmiau klausimas KAIP ja itempt - ar tas varztelis virs numerelio "2" ir yra itempejas? (minejau kad bus kvailu klausimu)
3. begiu kojeles laisvumas. klapatuojasi galas per ~2mm, + yra laisvumas ikisant/istraukiant (hehe), taip turi but ar cia paranojos ir amebizmo apraiskos?
sankabos sivakar pilnai nenuemiau, todel iki tikslo nedaejau - ryt atikirsiu kur replytes tam fiksavimo ziedeliui nuimt.
Nuemes dangkteli radau prakitskai ta pati ka rado ir stormsikas, tik makro shotai su mano domkratu yra nekokios kokibes, todel klausimai uzduodami ant
binaro:1. gera naujiena. tiksliau is blogiausiu pati geriausia. verzlele nuemes radau palaida kaip mergas aleksandraveles kaime. dziaugsmo priezastis - jago ne begiu prapuolimas, dar ir vazineciau ... pasekmes manau visiems skyrelio lankytojams yra aiskios? o dabar gi atsiperkame vos pabraizyta danktelio vieta, kas paaiskina is kur po pastarojo tepaliuko keitimo atsirado mazas aliuminio drozleliu kiekis oil skryne. priversim.
2, ne tokia linksma naujiena. matome kad iliustruojamoje vietoje grandine yra padariusi ibrezimu. su salyga kad nezinau ar tai padaryta per 8 bergo eksploatavimo metus ar tik man vadeliojant, nezinau ar grandine yra tinkamai itempta. todel kyla naturalus klausimas kiek reikia ja itempt? aisku, pirmiau klausimas KAIP ja itempt - ar tas varztelis virs numerelio "2" ir yra itempejas? (minejau kad bus kvailu klausimu)
3. begiu kojeles laisvumas. klapatuojasi galas per ~2mm, + yra laisvumas ikisant/istraukiant (hehe), taip turi but ar cia paranojos ir amebizmo apraiskos?
sankabos sivakar pilnai nenuemiau, todel iki tikslo nedaejau - ryt atikirsiu kur replytes tam fiksavimo ziedeliui nuimt.
+2/-14
filmukas, tai kaip filmukas, perziuretas buvo ne karta, ale pabandyk tu pakaisioti tuos tarpumacius, bebruzindamas pirstais i radiatoriuwundis wrote:hehe, siandien visa diena skaitaliojau kaip tuos voztuvus atregulioti!
labai padejo susidaryti kazkokiam supratimui sitas filmukas
sita smagu darbeli darysiu po to kai baigsiu ziuret kas ten sugedo su begiais.
yra toks topicas, kuri verta perskaityti
all done, iki kol ateis uzsisakyta 0.12 plokstele bei tarpines. shlove rashydui ir www.husaberg.org 
tai tipo, kaip. Gerai? ismokai?
Papasakok placiau...
Papasakok placiau...
tomasn wrote:all done, iki kol ateis uzsisakyta 0.12 plokstele bei tarpines. shlove rashydui ir www.husaberg.org
buvo vienas ismetimo voztuvas smarkiai perspaustas. paskutinis, kuri vakar reguliavau. Va sita postas darbu eigos tvarka sureguliavo. plius dar nuotrauku prie jo buvo imesta
I took a couple of photos when I did my 650 last. Might help.
The tools I use are a cut up 10/11 ring spanner, a cut up ball end Allen key and a short screwdriver with a rubber doughnut so its easier to retrieve if it drops into the top end.
Get access to topend by removing tank and stuff. On my 501 I can do the job from the RHS but on the 650 the fan gets in the way so I do it from the LHS.
I give all the top of the motor a good clean. I use a bit of petrol and a paint/tooth brush and compressed air. Aerosol brake cleaner is good too, but can get expensive. If in Oz, Repco will do a deal on a box of 12 Motortech brand for less than $3 a can which is good value and it works just as good as the $10-15 stuff. Give the frame a good blast too as your hands and arms can dislodge stuff that can fall into the motor otherwise. Cleanliness is essential when a motor is open.
On the 650 I remove the breather and block off the lugs with some caps I had in the shed that fit. (I keep things just in case!!!)
If the plug cavity is clear, pull the plug, and the rocker covers. Use the normal Allen key to loosen and then the short ball end bit spinning between your finger tips to get the bolts fully out.
Now engage 6th gear and rotate the motor looking for TDC using the back wheel. As the intake closes, the piston rises to TDC. I use a plastic drinking straw down the plug hole. Absolute precision here is not essential, just get it to when it starts to fall again and going backwards is OK too with the back wheel.
Eyeball where the screw heads are, maybe even make a sketch, or take a digital photo for reference. Now have a feel, move the tappets up and down, and you may need to force it a bit to squeeze the oil out to feel your clearance.
Now back off the lock nuts on both tappets and back out both screws a turn or 2. They should spin easily else the threads have been deformed from over tightening previously. Clean fingers are best.
Now get the screw driver between your fingers and spin a tappet screw down until it just seats. Make sure the nut is not giving you a false reading. Do this a couple of times and until you are happy that it is nice and consistent. Your eye will tell you where the slot on the screw is angled. Now with one finger holding the nut almost seated, back the screw off 1/6 turn, 1 flat of the nut. You can eyeball this. Now still with the screw driver in the screw, seat the nut with your fingers, and lock it with the ring spanner.
Normally the screw will not turn using this method when locking it down. Do not over tighten. Easy to say, I know!
Now check visually, and feel the clearance you have. How does it compare with where you started? Now do the rest.
I use new gaskets about every 3rd or 4th time and use a real thin smear of adhesive grease as a sealant.
Remove straw, replace plug. I like a little anitsieze on the plug threads too.
Job's done and should be 1/2 hr max from beginning to end.
Steve
Tai tomis instrukcijomis ir sekiau, tik TDC sudarau generatoriu nuemes. Po to dar 0.1 plokstele pakaisiojau, visur praejo.
Dar bandziau grandines itempeja pareguliuot, ale mazai ka ten supratau varzta issukes, ka daryt. reiks pries nakti pasiskaitinet.
Snekant apie garsa, tai uzdarame garaze nieko nesuprasi, gaudzia viskas, uzia, ir tiek. Reiks lauke kur paklausyt
I took a couple of photos when I did my 650 last. Might help.
The tools I use are a cut up 10/11 ring spanner, a cut up ball end Allen key and a short screwdriver with a rubber doughnut so its easier to retrieve if it drops into the top end.
Get access to topend by removing tank and stuff. On my 501 I can do the job from the RHS but on the 650 the fan gets in the way so I do it from the LHS.
I give all the top of the motor a good clean. I use a bit of petrol and a paint/tooth brush and compressed air. Aerosol brake cleaner is good too, but can get expensive. If in Oz, Repco will do a deal on a box of 12 Motortech brand for less than $3 a can which is good value and it works just as good as the $10-15 stuff. Give the frame a good blast too as your hands and arms can dislodge stuff that can fall into the motor otherwise. Cleanliness is essential when a motor is open.
On the 650 I remove the breather and block off the lugs with some caps I had in the shed that fit. (I keep things just in case!!!)
If the plug cavity is clear, pull the plug, and the rocker covers. Use the normal Allen key to loosen and then the short ball end bit spinning between your finger tips to get the bolts fully out.
Now engage 6th gear and rotate the motor looking for TDC using the back wheel. As the intake closes, the piston rises to TDC. I use a plastic drinking straw down the plug hole. Absolute precision here is not essential, just get it to when it starts to fall again and going backwards is OK too with the back wheel.
Eyeball where the screw heads are, maybe even make a sketch, or take a digital photo for reference. Now have a feel, move the tappets up and down, and you may need to force it a bit to squeeze the oil out to feel your clearance.
Now back off the lock nuts on both tappets and back out both screws a turn or 2. They should spin easily else the threads have been deformed from over tightening previously. Clean fingers are best.
Now get the screw driver between your fingers and spin a tappet screw down until it just seats. Make sure the nut is not giving you a false reading. Do this a couple of times and until you are happy that it is nice and consistent. Your eye will tell you where the slot on the screw is angled. Now with one finger holding the nut almost seated, back the screw off 1/6 turn, 1 flat of the nut. You can eyeball this. Now still with the screw driver in the screw, seat the nut with your fingers, and lock it with the ring spanner.
Normally the screw will not turn using this method when locking it down. Do not over tighten. Easy to say, I know!
Now check visually, and feel the clearance you have. How does it compare with where you started? Now do the rest.
I use new gaskets about every 3rd or 4th time and use a real thin smear of adhesive grease as a sealant.
Remove straw, replace plug. I like a little anitsieze on the plug threads too.
Job's done and should be 1/2 hr max from beginning to end.
Steve
Tai tomis instrukcijomis ir sekiau, tik TDC sudarau generatoriu nuemes. Po to dar 0.1 plokstele pakaisiojau, visur praejo.
Dar bandziau grandines itempeja pareguliuot, ale mazai ka ten supratau varzta issukes, ka daryt. reiks pries nakti pasiskaitinet.
Snekant apie garsa, tai uzdarame garaze nieko nesuprasi, gaudzia viskas, uzia, ir tiek. Reiks lauke kur paklausyt
nu tu cia naujiena su grandines itempeju reguliavimo islauzej. Ten reguliuot nieko nereik - jis automatinis. Galima pagal manuala chekint er neissidevejo:
"Check the elongation of the timing chain 90h or 45 h when racing )
http://husaberg.org/index.php?name=PNph ... 271089205c
"Check the elongation of the timing chain 90h or 45 h when racing )
http://husaberg.org/index.php?name=PNph ... 271089205c
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