padangu sildytuvai
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speedmonkey
- 50cc tarp koju
- Posts: 128
- Joined: 18 Oct 2008, 19:20
- Location: Anavaten
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mindaugasa vol.2
- Dievo treneris
- Posts: 13060
- Joined: 21 Jan 2008, 18:09
- Location: balsiai
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Since I started racing in '96 I have never used tire warmers, but then again I have also used Dunlop race tires the whole time. I have always been impressed by the 'cold' traction that these tires have, you just need to exercise a little bit of extra throttle control for the warm up lap and then the 1st lap of the race. I have heard people say that certain tire brands NEED tire warmers due to their questionable 'cold' traction, or they just want to have that little bit of extra security of having warm tires at the start with the tires that do have good 'cold' traction.
The tire warmers I have heard the best things about have the digital units that let you set a certain temp and the unit will keep the tire temp there. An issue with having tire warmers, or other electrical items, is you need a source of power which is not too often available at race tracks. This means you will need a generator, which is not only an initial purchase, but an ongoing fuel cost to add to your total racing cost per event. I realize that this cost is not alot, but it's all the little costs like this that add up to make your total bill for track time more expensive than you may originally think. Another issue with generators is noise, having a cheap, LOUD, generator will very effectively make you very unpopular with those near you in the pits and will truely be an annoyance to yourself and everyone else. You should look into the decibel noise rating of the generator, generally you truely do get what you pay for in generators (this is part of the reason that the Honda generators are more expensive, they are generally quieter than the others). Other things to seriously consider are if the generator is designed to run continuosly for hours on end (most cheapies are not), if the engine is an overhead cam unit with a pressurized oil system and replacable oil filter, if it has electric start (a convenience, but a really nice feature), if it has an idle control to throttle itself down between use of things like drills or even thermostatically controlled tire warmers (not a requirement), if it has wheels to move it around if too heavy for 1 person to carry, and what it's wattage output is rated at for both continuos and surge (surge is for start up of some electrical items like air compressors and air conditioners).
There are some real trade offs between what you need and what you may want in a generator. Many people think bigger is better, but in generators this quickly equates to being louder, using considerably more fuel, more heat, and larger size and more weight to haul around in your trailer making it less convenient. From what I found you'll see a significant increase in fuel consumption once a generator gets into the 5000 to 6000+ rated wattage range (continuos). I did alot of shopping around to find a generator with a 4000 watt continuos rating and a really high surge rating respectively at 6600 watts (most surge ratings are much closer to the continuos rating). The only disappointment I found with my $750 generator (with a Honda engine) was the noise, I was told at the store the muffler was the best in it's class, which it is, but it was still a bit louder than I wanted. My next generator I'm going to spend the money and get a quiet Honda Generator that is rated at either 2000 or 3000 watts continuos, these particular models can be hooked up to another same model unit to double output if you later find you need more power, all while remaining very quiet. If you only need one for tire warmers and hand drills and such I would highly suggest going this route, these will also retain their value quite well so you could later sell it for a good price as well.
This added cost is the type of thing many people don't consider when planning to go racing, many hidden things like this can add up very quickly and nickle and dime you to death. Getting buddied up with at least 1 other person will help to share some of these costs, each of you can supply different things that are needed (like one has a trailer and another buys a good generator). I would highly suggest not splitting costs on each thing though, each thing should be owned by 1 person only (this will help to avoid problems later if you decide to go your seperate ways).
I wish you luck in your racing, have fun, and race safe!
The tire warmers I have heard the best things about have the digital units that let you set a certain temp and the unit will keep the tire temp there. An issue with having tire warmers, or other electrical items, is you need a source of power which is not too often available at race tracks. This means you will need a generator, which is not only an initial purchase, but an ongoing fuel cost to add to your total racing cost per event. I realize that this cost is not alot, but it's all the little costs like this that add up to make your total bill for track time more expensive than you may originally think. Another issue with generators is noise, having a cheap, LOUD, generator will very effectively make you very unpopular with those near you in the pits and will truely be an annoyance to yourself and everyone else. You should look into the decibel noise rating of the generator, generally you truely do get what you pay for in generators (this is part of the reason that the Honda generators are more expensive, they are generally quieter than the others). Other things to seriously consider are if the generator is designed to run continuosly for hours on end (most cheapies are not), if the engine is an overhead cam unit with a pressurized oil system and replacable oil filter, if it has electric start (a convenience, but a really nice feature), if it has an idle control to throttle itself down between use of things like drills or even thermostatically controlled tire warmers (not a requirement), if it has wheels to move it around if too heavy for 1 person to carry, and what it's wattage output is rated at for both continuos and surge (surge is for start up of some electrical items like air compressors and air conditioners).
There are some real trade offs between what you need and what you may want in a generator. Many people think bigger is better, but in generators this quickly equates to being louder, using considerably more fuel, more heat, and larger size and more weight to haul around in your trailer making it less convenient. From what I found you'll see a significant increase in fuel consumption once a generator gets into the 5000 to 6000+ rated wattage range (continuos). I did alot of shopping around to find a generator with a 4000 watt continuos rating and a really high surge rating respectively at 6600 watts (most surge ratings are much closer to the continuos rating). The only disappointment I found with my $750 generator (with a Honda engine) was the noise, I was told at the store the muffler was the best in it's class, which it is, but it was still a bit louder than I wanted. My next generator I'm going to spend the money and get a quiet Honda Generator that is rated at either 2000 or 3000 watts continuos, these particular models can be hooked up to another same model unit to double output if you later find you need more power, all while remaining very quiet. If you only need one for tire warmers and hand drills and such I would highly suggest going this route, these will also retain their value quite well so you could later sell it for a good price as well.
This added cost is the type of thing many people don't consider when planning to go racing, many hidden things like this can add up very quickly and nickle and dime you to death. Getting buddied up with at least 1 other person will help to share some of these costs, each of you can supply different things that are needed (like one has a trailer and another buys a good generator). I would highly suggest not splitting costs on each thing though, each thing should be owned by 1 person only (this will help to avoid problems later if you decide to go your seperate ways).
I wish you luck in your racing, have fun, and race safe!
cross cojones PC
Galingumas rasomas pikinis. Ijungimo metu kaitinimo elementai kiek daugiau sroves pasiima, delto normalu, kad jungiant ne vienu metu gali uztekti abiems ir 1,5KWw919 wrote:Greiciausiai labai panasiai, o realybej net kiek maziau. Is 2 KW Honda generatoriaus 2-iems motociklams uzsimaitina be problemu, isbandyta ne viena karta.Vito wrote:Kiek pamenu priekinis 400-450 W, galinis 600-650 W.
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didzhej
didzhej
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mindaugasa vol.2
- Dievo treneris
- Posts: 13060
- Joined: 21 Jan 2008, 18:09
- Location: balsiai
- Contact:
tiksliai, gi siti supermotiniai, sorry uz sutrukdyma. pamirsau kad jie netinka. nors eisiu veliau i garaza turiu 190 padanga pameginsiu gal apzios, idomumo delei
cia ant 190 padangos uzmauta, apima visa padangos plota kuris lieciasi su zeme, nezinau ar turi ta sona kur uzrasyti duomenys apimti. turbut butu problema kad reiketu tuos dirzelius kurie tvirtinasi prie raltankio prailingti(bet reiketu konkreciai ant ratlankio mauti ir ziureti) ta proga padarau sildytuvus uz 200lt. deveti bet veikiantys.
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mindaugasa vol.2
- Dievo treneris
- Posts: 13060
- Joined: 21 Jan 2008, 18:09
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